About Bali


With a reputation as being one of the most beautiful and deserve tourist spots in Asia, Bali attracts at most 1,000,000 visitors a year, from all around the world.

Geographically, Bali lies between the islands of Java and Lombok. Bali is small, stretching approximately 140 km from east to west 80 km from north to south. The tallest of a string of volcanic mountains that run from the east to the west, is Gunung Agung, which last erupted in 1963. Lying just 8 south of the equator, Bali boasts a tropical climate with just two seasons (wet and dry) a year and an average annual temperature of around 28C. The wide and gently sloping southern regions play host to Bali's famed rice terrace among some of the most spectacular in the world. In the hilly, northern coastal regions, the main produce is coffee, copra, spices, vegetables, cattle and rice.
The Balinese have strong spiritual roots and despite the large influx of tourist over the years, their culture is still very much alive. The main religion is Agama Hindu Dharma, and although originally from India, the Balinese religion is a unique blend of Hindu, Buddhist, Javanese and ancient indigenous beliefs and different from the Hinduism practiced in India today.

Naturally creative, the Balinese have traditionally used their talents for religious purposes and most of the beautiful work to be seen here has been inspirit by stories from the Ramayana and other Hindu epics.

The Majority of Bali's 3,000,000 people live, for the most part, in tight, village communities with large extended families. The largest towns are the capital Denpasar and Singaraja in the North. The main tourist area stretches from Kuta to Seminyak. Kuta became major attraction during the tourist boom of the 70's, because of it famed white-sand beaches, the surf and stunning sunsets.

Today, the Kuta to Seminyak stretch is a major tourist destination, with hundreds of hotels, restaurants and shops. Those in search of a little peace and quite tend to head for the more sedate resorts of Sanur and Candi Dasa, on the east coast, or Lovina in the north. Nusa Dua, on the southern-most peninsula of the island, houses many five star hotels. The central village of Ubud, in the hilly region of Gianyar, has also blossomed as a tourist attraction and is now considered to be the artistic and cultural centre of Bali.

Although there are no artifacts of records dating back to the Stone Age, it is believe that the first settlers on Bali migrated from China around 2,500B.C. By the Bronze era around 300 B.C. quite and evolved culture existed on Bali. The complex system of irrigation and rice production, still in use today, was established around this time.

It appears that the time religion, around 500 A.D. was predominantly Buddhist influence. A Chinese scholar, Yi-Tsing, in 670 A.D. reported, on a trip to India, that he had visited a Buddhist country called Bali.

It wasn't until the 11th century that Bali received the first strong influx of Hindu and Javanese culture. With the death of his father around AD 1011, the Balinese Prince, Airlanggha, moved to East Java and set about uniting it under one principality. Having succeeded, he then appointed his brother, Anak Wungsu, as ruler of Bali. During the ensuing period there was a Javanese language, Kawi, became the language used by the aristocracy, one of the many Javanese traits and costume adopted by the cause.

With the death of Airlangga, in the middle of the 11th century, Bali enjoyed a period of autonomy. However, this proved to be short-lived, as in 1284 the east Javanese King Kertanegara, conquered Bali and ruled over it from Java. In 1292 Kertanegara was murdered and Bali took the opportunity to liberate itself once again. However, in 1343, Bali was brought back under Javanese control by its defeat at the hands of GajahMada, a general in the last of the great Hindu-Javanese empires, the Majapahit. With the spread of Islam throughout Sumatra and Java during the 16th century, the Majapahit empires began to collapse and a large exodus of aristocracy, priests, artists and artisans to Bali ensued. For a while Bali flourished and the following centuries were considered the Golden Age of Bali's cultural history. The principality of Gelgel, near Klungkung, became a major centre for the Arts, and Bali became the major power of the regions, taking, control of neighbouring Lombok and parts of East Java.

THE EUROPEAN INFLUENCE

The first Dutch seamen set foot on Bali in 1597, yet it wasn't until the 1800's that the Dutch showed an interest in colonizing the island. In 1846, having had large areas of Indonesia under their control since the 1700's. The Dutch government sent troops into northern Bali. In 1894, Dutch forces sided with the Sasak people of Lombok to defeat their Balinese rulers. By 1911, all the Balinese principalities had either been defeated in Battle, or had capitulated, leaving the whole island under Dutch control. During World War II, the Dutch were expelled by the Japanese, who had occupied Indonesia from 1942 to 1945.

After the Japanese defeat, the Dutch tried to regain control of their former colonies, but on August 17, 1945, Indonesia was declared independent by its first President, Sukarno. After four years of fighting and strong criticism from the international finally ceded and in 1949, Indonesia was recognize as an independent country.

THE PEOPLE

Life in Bali is very communal with organization of villages, farming and even the creative arts being decided by the community. The local government is responsible for schools, clinics, hospitals and roads, but all other aspects of life are placed in the hands of two traditional committees, whose roots in Balinese culture stretch back centuries. The first, Subak concerns the production of rice and organizes the complex irrigation system. Everyone who owns a sawah, or padi field, must joint their local Subak, which then ensures that every member gets his fair distribution of irrigation water. The other community organization is the Banjar, which arranges al village festivals, marriage ceremonies and cremations. Most villages has at least one Banjar all males have to join one when they marry. Banjars, on average, have a membership of between 50 to 100 families and each Banjar has its own meeting place called the Bale Banjar. As well as being used for regular meetings, the Bale (Pavilion) is where the local gamelan orchestras and drama groups practice.

RELIGION
The Balinese are Hindu yet their religion is very different from that of the Indian variety. The Balinese worship the Hindu trinity Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, who are sin manifestation of Supreme God Shanghyang Widi. Other Indian Gods like Ganesha (The Elephant-headed God) also often appear, but more commonly, one will see shrines to the many Gods and spirits that are uniquely Balinese. Balinese believe strongly in magic and the power of spirits, and much of the religion is base upon this. They believe that good spirits dwell in the mountain and that the seas are home to demon and ogres. Most villages have at least three main temples; one, the Pura Puseh or 'Temple of Origin', faces the mountains, another, the Pura Desa or village Temple, is normally found in the centre, and the last the Pura Dalem, is aligned with the sea and is dedicated to the spirits of the dead. Aside of these 'village' temples, almost every house has its own shrine. Some temples, Pura Besakih for example, on the slopes of mount Agung, are considered especially important and people from all over Bali travel worship there.

Offerings play a significant rule in Balinese life as they appease the spirits and thus bring prosperity and good health to the family. Everyday small offering trays (Canang Sari) containing symbolic food, flowers, cigarette and money, art placed on shrines, in the temples, outside houses and shops, and even at dangers cross road.

Festivals are another great occasion for appeasing the Gods. The woman bear huge, beautifully arranged, pyramids of food, fruit and flowers on their heads while the men might conduct a blood sacrifice through a cockfight. There are traditional dances and music and the Gods are invited to come down to joint in the festivities. The festival are usually very exciting occasions and well worth observing, if you are the area. Please refer to the back page 'A world of Advice' for Rules.
 

Balinese Ceremony and Rituals

It is said there is never a day in Bali without a ceremony of some kind and if you include all the life cycle rites (baby ceremonies, puberty rites, weddings, cremations, Temple festivals), then this adage is probably true. There are definitely certain times that are “ceremony-heavy” such as the full moons in April and October and the high holy days of Galungan (see below for more info). Balinese religion (called Agama Hindu) consist of three primary elements: Hinduism based on what is practiced in India but differing substantially from those traditions, animism (where every living thing has a soul) and ancestor worship (the Balinese deify their ancestors after a proscribed process of cleansing has been done).

Temple festivals are held on the anniversary of when the temple in question was consecrated. This could be an annual event, held on a new or full moon or more likely every 210 days, based on the wuku system, a complex calculation of overlapping days of confluence, some being more “powerful” than others (think of Friday the 13th).

An Odalan or temple ceremony usually lasts for three days, but larger ones (which occur every 5, 10, 30 or 100 years) can last for 11 days or longer. The gist of what is happening here is that the Balinese are honoring the deities that rule over the temple by giving them a myriad of offerings, performances of vocal music, dance and gamelan music. They invite them down from their abode on Mount Agung to partake in the activities.

The temple is dressed up in colorful golden clothes, the images of the deities are taken to the local holy spring to be bathed and dressed in their best, shrines are cleaned, performances are rehearsed, committees are formed and then the big day arrives. Usually people take their offerings to the temple in the late afternoon, after the heat of the day has gone, and everyone's work and school obligations are over.

The offerings, consisting of fruits, rice cakes and flowers, are brought in on women's heads and placed at strategic points around the temple. These are blessed with holy water by the temple Pemangku or the priest. The pilgrims then pray, are blessed with drink holy water and bija then take the offerings home to share with their families. The gods have taken the sari or essence of the offerings, leaving the “leftovers” for the humans to consume. In the evenings, there could be spectacular performances of music and dance by local groups.

Since every village has at least three major village’s temples ie. Ulun Desa Temple, Puseh Temple and Dalem Temple (and often many more than that), there is always some kind of community religious activity going on. Aside from the village temple festivals, every household compound's family temple (Panti Temple) also has its ceremony every 210 days.

Aside from the Odalan, there are a dozen or so life and death cycle rites that are performed throughout a child's life:

1. Megedong-Gedongan : this is done in the 8th month (Gregorian calendar/7th month Balinese calendar) of pregnancy to ask blessings for an easy birth. The pregnant woman and her husband wade into the river, where eels and small fish are placed face down on her protruding belly to show the baby the right way out!

2. Birth: Only the husband and the midwife/doctor are allowed to hold the placenta or after birth. This is washed and then buried on the right (if the baby is a boy) side of the northern pavilion or left (if a girl). With it are buried a comb, a dance fan, a pen, a book, Balinese literature —whatever the family wishes the child will grow up to enjoy. The parents are not allowed to go into the kitchen for three days.

3. Three Days after birth: the parents undergo a simple cleansing ritual so they can go into the kitchen.

4. Rorasin: 12 days after the birth the umbilical cord has usually fallen off. This is placed in a special shrine dedicated to Kumara, the Guardian of Babies.

5. 42-day Ceremony: Once a baby has reached this age, a rather large ritual is performed for her/him. This is to ensure that her/his development will continue unhindered. One of the things done at this time is that a baby chick and baby duck are brought in to peck off/dust off cooked rice that is on the baby's third eye. This is to show the child how to use her hands and feet as well as her mouth to gather food, as the animals do. She is placed under a cockfighting basket where she grabs items that have previously been placed into a clay pot. It is said that whatever she grabs is her vocation.

6. NELUBULANIN or Three month ceremony: This is also quite a grand ceremony that all the relatives and neighbors are invited to. This marks the first time a child touches the ground for the first time (he is carried everywhere previously). In some villages, this is when the child is “replaced” by a dressed up eggplant or cucumber. The priest sings the praises of the the eggplant so that spirits of chaos that might be lurking around will follow the eggplant when it's thrown out the front door, while the real baby stays protected.

7. OTONAN or six months (210 days) ceremony. This is the baby's birthday and will be celebrated ritually every 6 months. But no birthday cakes here!

8. Three odalans is traditionally when the child has her or his hair cut off and head shaved to represent purity.

9. MENEK BAJANG or puberty. Not all castes perform this ceremony. It happens when the girl gets her period and the boy's voice cracks. They are paraded around the village announcing to all that they are now adults (and in the olden days, ready to marry)

10. MESANGIH or Tooth filing: In their late teens, Balinese get the top middle teeth filed; this symbolizes the filing away of greed, anger, lust, drunkenness, envy and confusion.

11. NGANTEN or Wedding: the ultimate fusion of male and female

12. SEDA or Death: within death, there are a number of rites. The first is the ritual cleansing of the corpse by the family and the banjar (neighborhood), then comes the burial or the cremation (if the family can afford to cremate right away, they will choose that option) and then the post-crematory purification rites where the soul becomes a deity that shall be worshipped in the family temple.

Aside from these major rituals, there are also honor days which occur every 35 days and are made for ;
• Anything out of metal: daggers, knives, gamelan instruments and now cars and the like
• Any fruiting trees
• Any domesticated animals, such as pigs, cows, chickens, goats.
• Shadow puppets and dance paraphenelia
• Literature (Goddess Saraswati)
• Kuningan : the end of the l0 day cycle of Galungan

Then we have Nyepi, the day of Silence, when one is not allowed to cook, light fires, go outside the home, drive, have sex or make a lot of noise. It occurs in March or April and one can palpably feel the energy in the air diminish for 24 hours.

Hari Raya Galungan is the day when the victory of Dharma or Justice/Truth wins over Adharma. It is when the family ancestors descend into the family temples, led there by seeing the long curved bamboo pole (penjor) that are erected in front of every Balinese house. For ten days, the ancestors are feted in the family temples; many temple festivals occur at this time of year and there is great feasting. On the last day, Kuningan, the ancestors are seen off with a flurry of yellow offerings and yellow rice.

There are also days to honor Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice, within the rice-growing cycle and other agricultural products. Yes, nearly every day is a day to celebrate something in Bali!
Hari Raya Saraswati (the Goddess of learning, science and literature)
In accordance with Balinese Hindu belief, knowledge is an essential medium to achieve the goal of life as a human being. This day celebrates Saraswati in Bali, a special day devoted to the Goddess of learning, science and literature. Saraswati rules the intellectual and creative realm, and is the patron saint of libraries and schools. For Balinese Hindus, she is celebrated as she succeeded in taming the wandering and lustful mind of her consort, Brahma, who was preoccupied with the goddess of material existence, Shatarupa. On this day no one is allowed to read or write, and offerings are made to the lontar (palm-leaf scripts), books and shrines.

Saraswati Day is celebrated every 210-days on Saniscara Umanis Wuku Watugunung and marks the start of the new year according to the Balinese Pawukon calendar. Ceremonies and prayers are held at the temples in family compounds, villages and businesses from morning to noon. Prayers are also held in school temples. Teachers and students abandon their uniforms for the day in place of bright and colourful ceremony gear, filling the island with colour! Children bring fruit and traditional cakes to school for offerings at the temple.

Hari Raya Nyepi (the Silence Day)
The month of March brings us Nyepi - Bali's official day of silence (24hrs). Nyepi marks the first day of the Balinese Saka calendar and is practiced island-wide where the Balinese dedicate an entire day to introspection and spiritual cleansing, embarking on a new year based on the Balinese lunar calendar. This is the only place in the world where the government will shut down an airport for meditation & introspection!

Nyepi is my favorite day of the year. The night before the silence begins, there is an island wide parade of paper mache monsters (Ogoh-Ogoh) sent about making a rukus to scare evil spirits off the island, back to where ever they came from. Starting from approximately 6 a.m. and continuing until 6 a.m. the next morning, EVERYONE will stay in their family compounds (or hotels) and silence will overcome the island. There are no cars, no tv's or loud radios, no lamps or fires and no airplanes overhead.
 

BALI TEMPLES


1. BESAKIH TEMPLE
Besakih Temple is the biggest temple in Bali, which is considered the mother of all temples available. It is located 40 Km from Amlapura the Capital City of Karangasem Regency. A climb north, through the astonishing landscapes of Bukit Jambul, ascends over 900 meters up the slopes of Gunung Agung to Pura Besakih, the holiest of all temples in Bali. It originated most probably as a prehistoric terraced sanctuary where worship and offerings were made to the god of Gunung Agung, the dominant landscape element in the Balinese world. Over a thousand years and more, it was enlarged and added to until it grew into the present complex of about 30 temples.

In the 10th century it was apparently a state temple. According to inscriptions kept here, an important event took place in the year 1007. If can only be guessed that this was associated with death rituals for Queen Mahendradatta, Udayana's co-ruier who died the previous year. Since the 1 5th century it was the state temple of the Geigel-Kiungkung dynasty which built a series of small temples in honorof itsdeified rulers. Now it isthe state temple for the provincial and national governments which meet all expenses. Today, Pura Besakih is revered by all Balinese as the "mother temple" of Bali. Within the Besakih complex, the paramount sanctuary is the Pura Panataran Agung which rears its lofty merus on a high bank of terraces, Steps ascend in a long perspective to the austere split gate. Inside the main courtyard stands the three-seated shrine enthroning the Trisakti, the trinity of Brahma, Visnu and Siwa, During festivals the shrines are wrapped in colored cloth symbolic of the deities. The Pura Panataran Agung and two other important temples higher up the slope likewise together symbolize the Trisakti. In the center Pura Panataran Agung is hung with white banners for Siwa; to the right, Pura Kiduling Kreteg vyith red banners for Brahma; and Pura Batu Mddeg, to the left, with black banners for Visnu. These latter two temples are taken care of by . the Karangasem and Bangli regencies respectively, certain other shrines being the responsibility of the other regencies. All of Bali comes together at Pura Besakih. Religiously, oneness is symbolized in the padmasana in Pura Panataran Agung, dedicated to Sang Hyang Widdhi, the Supreme God. Pura Besakih is most fascinating at festival times, but it is grand and impressive whenever you go there. The drive up the mountain to Besakih, with a stopover in Klungkung for sight-seeing and shopping, takes a full day. To resume the tour of East Bali, if you are staying in Denpasar, it is best to leave early in the morning the following day. By passing through Klungkung before noon, you may choose a site to lunch on the beach or in the shaded countryside and visit the Bat Cave, tshing villages and Tenganan before reaching Karangasem in mid-afternoon. Now that the new road linking Rendang and Karangasem has been finished, it is possible to make a Besakih- Karangaserm round trip comfortably in a day. You may be lucky to arrive in Bali during a time when eastern villages are holding ceremonies. Festivals, unique to these villages, should not be missed, so check the calendar of events at your hotel to find a good time to visit.

2. LEMPUYANG TEMPLE
At the beginning of the creation, when earth was only 70 years old, the island of Bali was instable; earthquakes happened everyday for months, torrents rains, with constant lightning and thunders was the only weather. The god Pacupati, who resides in Mount Sumeru saw this condition and sent his three children to stabilize the island of Bali. His three children Hyang Gni Jaya, Hyang Putra Jaya and Dewi Danu came to Bali and reside in three different places; Dewi Danu resides on Mount Batur, Hyang Putra Jaya resides on Mount Agung, and Hyang Gni Jaya resides in Lempuyang Luhur. Lempuyang Luhur temple is a sacred temple which is located on the top of Belibis Hill, northeast of Mount Agung, in Karangasem regency. Lempuyang is one of the six major Temple in Bali besides Andakasa Temple, Uluwatu Temple, Watukaru Temple, Ulun Danu Batur Temple and Besakih Temple. In Balinese cosmogony, Lempuyang Luhur is considered temple of the East, the abode of god Iswara, keeper of the peace. The meaning of the word “lempuyang” which serves as the name of this sacred temple has long been a subject of dispute. Some said the word “lempuyang” is derive take from the word “lampu” (light) and “hyang” (God), the word “lempuyang” means the “Light of God”. Some say the word “lempuyang” means a kitchen seasoning that can be used for some traditional medicine. And other said that the word “lempuyang” is derived from the word “emong or empu” that means “guardian”. Compare to other six major temple of Bali, Lempuyang Luhur is quite small and has only few shrines which are a padmasana or the shrine of God, two shrines which are similar to padmasana and share single foundation, dedicated to Hyang Gnijaya, the founder of Lempuyang Luhur temple and his sons. A piyasan, or pavilion serves as a place for place offerings, and for the priest who officiate the ceremony, and a gedong, a masonry building to store equipments for ceremony.
The main reason for the Balinese to make a pilgrimage there is to obtain the sacred holy water. This sacred holy water is obtained by cutting a yellow bamboo plant which grows in shrubs in the inner courtyard of the temple; the holy water drips from the fresh bamboo cutting. Unfortunately not all the pilgrims get this holy water only the lucky ones. Climbing the Belibis to reach the temple is worth to be called an exercise, considering the number of the steps, it gives also a picturesque view of the surrounding forest and mountains. In the rainy seasons the steps are slippery and infested with leeches. Balinese usually pay homage to this temple at night especially during the full moon.

3. BATUR TEMPLE
Commonly called Ulun Danu temple is situated at 900 meters ,above seal level of Kalanganyar Batur village, Kintamani District. Batur temple or commonly called Ulun Danu Temple is situated at 900 meters above sea level of Kalanganyar, Batur village, Kintamani District on the eastern side of the main road leading to Denpasar or Singaraja Via Bangli.  The temple faced west ward where mount Baturlake Batur stretches far down the slope, enchased the beauty to nature around the temple. Formerly, before it is in its present location Batur temple is located on the south western slope of mount Batur. Since the devastating eruption in 1917 which destroyed everything, including the temple its self, then initiated by the head of the village along with other prominent figures, they brought the surviving shrines with them and rebuilt Batur temple to the higher place at Kalanganyar on its present location. The ceremony in this temple is held annually commonly called Ngusaba ke Dasa. In 1927,the people of Batur began rebuilding Pura Ulun Danu, the temple which once lay at the foot of the volcano. It was an ambitious project. The majority of the 285 planned shrines are yet to be completed. At present, the temple is finely and simply designed. Two august gateways, severe in contrast to the elaborate split gates of South Bali, open onto spacious courtyards laid with black gravel. Rows of meru towers silhouette against the sky in full view of the smoking volcano. The bale gedong, a storehouse of precious relics, contains a bell of solid gold. As the story goes, the bell was presented to the treasury of the temple by a king of Singaraja in atonement for his having insulted the deities. The ritual in this temple is closely linked with the veneration of Lake Batur and supplication for the blessing of irrigation water. The mountain, lakes help regulate the flow of water to he fields find villages through the many natural springs lower down the slopes.

4. BATUKARU TEMPLE
The temple is surrounded by thick vegetation and invigorating fresh air. In this temple there are old Balinese remains.
Luhur Batukaru temple is situated at Wangaya Gede village about 21 km North-west from Tabanan town. This temple includes one of Sad Kahyangan or Six Holy National Temple in Bali. The temple is surrounded by thick vegetation and invigorating fresh air. In this temple there are old Balinese remains. Many visitors come to visit this temple, both local and foreign, especially on its temple festival, which is usually held on Umanis Galungan, one day after Galungan.

5. TANAH LOT TEMPLE
Tanah Lot, with its solitary black towers and tufts of foliage spilling over the cliffs, recalls the delicacy of a Chinese painting. If hearsay is to be believed, there dwells inside one of the shrines at Tanah Lot a huge snake, discreetly left undisturbed by the Balinese.  Although a small sanctuary, Tanah Lot is linked to a series of sea temples on the south coast of Bali: Pura Sakenan, Pura Ulu Watu, Pura Rambut Siwi and Pura Peti tenget. All these temples are related to the principal mountain sanctuaries: Besakih at Gunung Agung, Pura Batur at Batur and Plura Luhur at Mt. Batukau. The upland temples venerate deities associated with mountains and mountain lakes, while the sea temples include homage to the guardian spirits of the sea within their ritual. These main temples are often listed with the sad-kahyangan the six holy "national" temples, which exact tribute from all Balinese. The chronicles attribute the temple at Tanah Lot to the 16th century priest Nirartha. During his travels along the south coast he saw the rock-island's beautiful setting and rested there. Some fishermen saw him, and bringing gifts, invited him to stay at their hut. Nirartha refused, saying he preferred to spend the night on the little island. That evening he spoke to the fishing folk and advised them to build a shrine on the rock, for he felt it to be a holy and fitting place to worship God. The villagers kept their promise. The beaches of Tanah Lot are ideal for relaxing, especially in the late afternoons, when the temple on the rock dissolves into a striking silhouette against the evening sky. Target out of the landscape by tides, wind and rain, the high off shore sentinel rock of Tanah Lot. Supports a picturesque see temple, which cans small here ached by a scramble over the wet rocks. This Temple was built in the 15th century by the priest, Pedanda Bahu Rawuh or Danghyang Nirartha from Majapahit Jawa. Near this Temple there are several small and big shrines, the biggest one is Pekendungan Temple. There is a spring considered sacred not far from this temple. Tanah Lot is 13 km from Tabanan is Beraban village. When the tide is low people can walk to the temple. It looks like a floating one if the tide is high. There are many caves under the temple lived by the peaceful sea snakes, which has white and black colors. It's located 16 kilometers west of International Airport Ngurah Rai, or a 20 minutes drive through Sunset Road. Coming in from Java IslandKediri intersection, at the Wisnu Murthi statue, turn right. In front of the Kediri police Station, turn left, and keep following this smooth road. In less than 10 minutes you will be there. Admission is Rp 1,000.- per person

6. GOA LAWAH TEMPLE
The road continuing east parallels lovely seascapes with a full view of Nusa Penida, inviting sunbathing, picnics and refreshing swims. One passes close to the sinister Goa Lawah, the Bat Cave, whose walls literally vibrate with thousands of bats-their bodies packed so close together that the upper surface of the cave resembles undulating mud. The sight would be more eerie if it weren't that whenever the creatures venture out of the cave into daylight, their radar sense directs them back into their murky dwelling place. Being an extraordinary phenomenon, Goa Lawah is considered holy. Atemple with shrines protects the entrance. The cave is said to extend all the way back to Besakih, and may,contain an underground river, which comes uiX it is said, at Pura Goa (Cave Temple) within the Besakih complex-a temple associated with the mythological naga or serpent Basuki which is also honored at Pura Goa Lawah, where 'a snake is said to live, feeding on bats.

7. TIRTA EMPUL TEMPLE  

The hallowed spring of Tirta Empul in Tampaksiring dates from legendary times. In popular folklore, it was made by lndra when he pierced the earth to create a spring of amerta, the elixir of immortality, with which he revived his forces who were poisoned by Mayadanawa. The waters are believed to have magic curative powers. Every year people journey from all over Bali to purify themselves in the clear pools. After leaving a small offering to the deity of the spring, men and women go either side to bathe. On the full moon of the fourth month each year, the villagers from nearby Manukaya take a sacred stone to be cleansed at Tirta Empul. When the weathered inscription found qp the stone was deciphered, it gave the bate of Tirta Empul's foundation as A.D. 962 and described the cleansing ceremony. For a. thousand years these villagers had been abiding,. by this tradition without having been aware of the meaning incised on the stone! In 1969 the temple at Tampaksiring was completely renovated. Many of the shrines were built anew and painted in bright colors. Outside the temple are rows of sales stands where you may buy souvenirs-the bargain being carved bone jewelry. On the hill above the sacred spring is the Government Palace built in 1 954. Once a resting place for Dutch officials, the site was chosen by former President Soekarno as his residence during his frequent trips to the island. South of Tirta Empul, on a line joining with Gunung Kawi, is Pura Mengening. There is a definite connection between these three places. At the latter temple there is a freestanding candi similar to those candle the facades of which are hewn from the rock at Gunung Kawi. Like Tirta Empul, the temple has a spring of pure water, which is also a source of the River Pakrisan. Pura Mengening might be the commemorative temple of King Udayana.

8. TAMAN AYUN TEMPLE

A turnoff toward the mountain leads to the principality of Mengwi which, until 1891, was the center of a powerful kingdom originating from the Gelgel dynasty. These kings continue to be venerated in the state temples of Mengwi, in particular Pura Taman Ayun. In Bali, each social unit-of increasing size beginning with the family-possesses a temple wherein they worship deified ancestors. The family ancestors are worshipped in the house temple, the clan ancestors in the clan temple, the founders of a village in the Pura Puseh, and previously the ancestors of a royal dynasty were collectively worshipped by a kingdom in the state temples. State temples include mountain temples, sea temples, and those at the heart of the kingdom, such as Mengwi's Pura "Taman Ayun".
Among the rows of palinggihs, (shrines that serve as "sitting places" to receive visiting deities during temple feasts) is a bri-ck b4ilding facin,g east: the paibon, a royal ancestral altar. In the surrounding pavilions, priests recite prayers, village elders hold council, offerings are prepared, furniture and the temple's musical instruments are stored. For those interested in traditional woodcarving, the small doors of the shrines here are beautifully carved. The moat gives the impression of a sanctuary in the middle of a pond, explaining the name taman, "garden with a pond". The waters are a symbolic place of contact with the divine through widadaris, celestrial nymphs who bathe there. Beyond the moat, the temple lies on slightly rising ground. The grassy expanse of the outermost courtyard, the fine array of merus and pavilions in the inner courtyard, and its well-kept appearance make it one of the most beautiful temples in Bali. Originally dating from 1634, Taman Ayun was restored and enlarged in 1937. On its festival day (odalan) hundreds of women file into the temple bearing colorful offerings, which they place together before the merus.

OTHERS


CLOTHES & TEXTILES
Bali has basically 3 indigenous textiles: Endek, Gringsing and Tenun Ikat. That being said most of the swaths of cloth and fancy printed apparel on sale in Bali are really Batik and native to Java, not Bali. FYI, the intricate designs on Batik cloth are made by applying wax to the fabric prior to dying each time another color is added.

Inasmuch as Endek is really only popular with the Balinese it is not mass produced - so it is quite safe to say that any endek you purchase will have been hand made. It is a laborious affair. The horizontal threads are laid out and pre dyed with a desired pattern in a tie dye type of operation ( the fabric may be dyed several times with different colors ). Once dyed the threads are dried then woven into the vertical threads on the loom. These vertical threads are only one color -usually black. It is not until the weaving is complete that one knows for sure the quality and clarity of the designer's work. This is just a rough idea how the process works, it's actually much more complicated than this with several people - men included - to make just one bolt of cloth. The finished bolt is about 20 feet long by 3.5 feet wide. It takes about 10 days just to weave one bolt of cloth - so think of the value !

Now, if you think that's tricky try it with both the vertical and horizontal threads at the same time. Imagine a weaver must come up with a design then "tye dye" both the horizontal and vertical threads separately 2-3 times depending on the number of colors used. Even the slightest miscalculation when dying the yarn or a mistake by the weaver and months of work are lost. This is basically how Gringsing is produced in the Balinese Village of Tenganan - one of two or three places in the entire world capable of producing this extraordinary textile. As mentioned many times in BaliHotels.com this is one of the best souvenirs available to visitors to Bali.

The third cloth, tenun ikat is also popular in Bali. Like endek the horizontal threads are dyed and woven into a solid vertical thread on the loom. The difference is that the patterns are solid colored blocks or simple crossing patterns. This cloth is also mostly produced by hand and is very popular in fashionable circles for clothing, home furnishings and accessories.

PAINTINGS

Traditional Kamasan Art
This is the most traditional of all Balinese paintings. Originating in the Klungkung Regency during the reign Kingdom of Gelgel it was widely admired throughout Bali. The artists specializing in this art form are known as "Sangging". In days gone by these Snagging artists would often be commissioned to travel to other kingdoms to decorate a palace or temple with this style of painting.

Kamasan is easily distinguished in the market. The paint color is predominately orange (sometimes blue) and the theme always depicts Hindu epics and are based on the Javanese Wayang characters. The characters are divided into two camps: Good, ( those with refined facial features and slim bodies) and Evil, (those with distorted faces, red color and distended bodies). The painting is a large canvas divided up into panels with each panel telling the story of a well known adventure. Years ago Kamasan art was placed primarily in temples as wall hangings, used as curtains, or as banners during festivals. (Go to the Kerta Goa Hall of Justice in Klungkung to see fine examples of this style). The paintings are used much the same way today with restaurants now often using the canvas for menu covers.

Kamasan still today has Sangging artists dedicated to painting in the traditional Kamasan style. Easily the best known Kamasan artist is I Nyoman Mandra who has his own school, and does restoration work. Bpk. Mandra can be found in Klungkung.

Modern Art

As mentioned earlier starting this century Balinese artists came under more direct influence of Western artists with the arrival of European artists. The most famous of these were German, Walter Spies and Dutchman, Rudolf Bonnet. These two painters taught the Balinese painters new, more realistic and expressionistic art - scenes from every day life, landscapes and the like - which now dominates the paintings produced on Bali. Later on and together with local artist Gede Agung Sukawati the Pitamaha Painters Association was established. Styles which sprang from this effort are briefly described below. When looking to buy keep in mind that prices vary widely depending on the size and the amount and clarity of detail.

Batuan

These large paintings are easily identified because every square inch of the canvas is filled with tiny figures going about life's daily activities (some quite graphic if you look hard enough). Usually bright colored, these paintings seem to be getting funnier and funnier (or sarcastic depending on your view of video camera tourists being painted into village life) as the years go by.

Keliki
Keliki paintings are generally the very small paintings you see hanging on pillars and odd spaces in different shops. These too are crammed with little images but look closely though and you will see that the subject matter is very different - usually the subject is the supernatural with fantastically detailed demons. 

Ubud
With highly stylized human features -strong lines, long necks, proud posture, and the like identify these paintings to have been influenced by Walter Spies. The paintings are usually large and colorful without being bright. Such artists as Dewa Putu Bedil are always in demand and you may well have to commission the best and wait quite some time before you own one of this style.

Modern

Nowadays there are many Balinese and Indonesian artists who practice what can best be described as Modern Art. Some like Made Winata, Krijono, and Joko amongst others have achieved a great deal of commercial success combining their Indonesian perspective with abstract figures and new colors.

KERIS

These daggers with their wavy blades are famous the world over. Going back as far as Hindu Javanese of Majapahit in the 13th century, these beautiful daggers are much more than a weapon - they are a revered symbol of the man who owns it and each Keris is deeply believed to have a life and spirit of its own. Indeed there are stories of kings, too busy with affairs of the palace to attend their own weddings, letting the Keris stand in as the groom. And not just any will Keris will do, a Keris must be matched spiritually to its owner to protect him from harm.

Since the Keris is found in many parts of Indonesia, there are correspondingly many different styles of blades, handles and sheaths - none any better than another just personal preference. In Bali the Keris is usually quite large and has a wavy double edged blade ( be careful when you unsheathe it, it's sharp! ) with an ornately carved handle (or hilt) representing one of the gods from the Ramayana epic. Also with the Balinese Keris the area connecting the blade to the handle is embedded with semi precious stones as is the sheath. As a comparison, the Keris from Java are usually smaller and less presumptuous and the Keris from North Sumatra are usually with straight, one sided blades.

An old, valuable Keris can easily fetch US$ 5,000. but an average Keris is about US$ 200 - US$ 500. When buying, attention to detail is everything. Look closely at the area that joins the blade to the handle, does the handle look new and the blade old?, is the blade intricately forged? etc.

MASKS
Practically from the time you step off the plane you will see masks of different sizes, shapes and colors. Whilst these days many masks are produced solely as tourist souvenirs not to take masks seriously in Bali would be a mistake. When a Westerner dons a mask at a party it is to pretend he is someone else. For Indonesians - especially Balinese to don a mask is to begin living the life of the mask. Masks used in performances of sacred dances are sacred and as such revered and kept so in temples. You will not find such masks sitting idly in a store waiting to be purchased. That being said, there are still fine masks - all works of art - that are no longer used available for sale (for a price).

Without going too deeply into (there are entire books devoted to the subject) most masks you will see are representations of Ramayana Epic. The masks with refined features such as a short pointed nose and white face represent Noblemen, while those with garish features - red faces with bulbous noses and missing teeth represent buffoons, idiots, liars and cheats. If you look closely at the eyes you will be able to see Chinese characters as well - they are the ones with the thinner eyes.

Lastly, today masks are being made in modern shapes like a crescent moons and painted abstract colors but these are really only for souvenirs and decoration. A fine mask properly displayed and well lit adds a lot to any home or office. Most of the best masks can be found in the village of Mas.

Reservation Office

Jalan Mawar Gg XI no 27,
Delod Peken, Grokgak Gede,
Tabanan 82113, Bali
INDONESIA

G.B.C. Hot Line Reservation : +62 (0) 81 2392 0962

Office : +62 (0361) 832307 (I.D.D.), +62 (0361) 832291 (I.D.D.)

Emails : info@gobalicarrental.com, gobali@dps.centrin.net.id, nyoman2002@yahoo.com